CARTIER, BELLE ÉPOQUE, DIAMOND, ENAMEL, AND PLATINUM 'PLAQUE DE COU', CIRCA 1905

A frontispiece designed as wreaths, foliate garlands, delicate floral swags, and two pendant drops, set with old European and old mine cut diamonds weighing approximately 12.25 carats total, further accented by rose cut diamonds and white enamel around the border. Mounted in platinum. 3 1/4 x 3 inches.
Gross weight: 25.90 dwt.

Accompanied by a fitted Cartier box and an IAJA Expertise report stating the necklace is Cartier, Paris, circa 1905.

Property from the Collection of Sarah Helen Frelinghuysen Davis McCawley, thus by descent

This Cartier ‘Plaque de Cou’ epitomizes the Belle Epoque era of design. Originally the plaque would be set by Cartier on a black velvet ribbon and worn as a dog collar necklace. The dog collar necklace is signature to the period, as is the ‘Garland Style’, so elegantly defined in this necklace with diamond wreaths, foliage and swags set in platinum. Unique to this piece and telling of early Cartier, the necklace dates 1905, is the use of white enamel along the border.

Belle Epoque, Edwardian and the Gilded Age all overlap in time and the society women wearing the jewels were fortunate to travel between France, London, and New York. This necklace has pedigree provenance, from the Collection of Sarah Helen Frelinghuysen Davis McCawley, thus by descent.

The Frelinghuysen family travelled in the elite circles of society with the Vanderbilts, Astors and in this case even Edith Wharton. Sarah Helen Frelinghuysen Davis McCawley was the daughter of Frederick T. Frelinghuysen, U.S. Senator and Secretary of State and Matilda Elizabeth Frelinghuysen. Sarah’s daughter was also named Mathilda married George Cabot Lodge in August of 1900. Mr. Lodge was a poet and the two frequented in the circle of Edith Wharton. After the death of her first husband, Sarah married Major McCawley in 1906. This rare and fine necklace frontispiece would have been acquired during this period of family history.